Jewellery designer Nadine Aysoy has been named the winner of the Editors’ Choice award at this year’s International Jewellery London (IJL).
The panel of industry magazine and digital editors chose the brand’s Mille et Une Feuilles 18k rose gold ring, set with one 14mm South Sea Pearl and 164 round-cut diamonds, as being the single most eye-catching design at Olympia this year.
Judges praised the piece for its leaf design that curves across multiple fingers; created a style that is equal parts elegant and extravagant.
One industry editor commented: “I love Nadine’s aesthetic and the consideration she puts into the market she’s targeting; hers are pieces for grown-ups and designs that last forever – transcending fashion. Her pieces have drama, intrigue and beautiful craftsmanship.”
IJL event director, Sam Willoughby, said: “Many of our media judges agreed that Nadine Aysoy’s Mille et Une Feuilles collection is one to watch. Her signature Mille et Une Feuilles rose gold ring is a real scene-stealer, proving that timeless style, impeccable craftsmanship and a contemporary spirit can exist in one piece. Congratulations to Nadine Aysoy on her Editors’ Choice win.”
During the inaugural day of IJL 2017 (3 September), a panel of six editors were tasked with discovering the exhibiting designer with the most attention-grabbing collections.
Other brands that have secured coveted Editors’ Choice Awards during the show include Farrah Al-Dujaili, designer of emerging brand Oddical, who was named ‘Designer to Watch’ for 2017.
IJL event director, Sam Willoughby, added: “At IJL, we are proud to have forged strong relationships with specialist trade magazines, journalists, bloggers and social media influencers. By giving these editors the chance to share their views, Editors’ Choice truly lives up to its name.”
The winners of the first phase of Editors’ Choice in the three exclusive categories – Technical Trailblazer, Creative Originality and Commercial Mastermind – were The Rock Hound, Isabella Liu and Franco Florenzi respectively.
The fashionable position to take on fashion, these days, is that trends are dead and that individual style and self-expression are what matters. The old certainties – skirts are hereby decreed knee length for six months, only camel coats are to be worn for the foreseeable – belong to a different era. To a bygone world in which political insiders gave ballpark-accurate election predictions and the Oscar statuette didn’t get handed to the wrong film in front of a global TV audience. Now the world is sick of experts, and that goes for fashion too.
Except in September. Because right now, the world needs fashion. The September issues of magazines, heavy as hymn books and immortalised by a glossy documentary, are testament to the power fashion has at this moment. Women who rely on their own style to steer their wardrobes the rest of the year are, at this point in the calendar as at no other, keen to be told which coat to buy and when to start wearing black tights. The system in which one consistent look could preside over a whole autumn and winter has been blown apart by an insatiable appetite for newness that demands we hit wardrobe-refresh every three weeks. September’s back-to-school moment, when you pack away the sundresses and straw baskets and revamp your look, is the one fixed red-letter-day that remains.
Of course this is all about emotion, really, not clothes. Summer is fading, holidays are over, and after the second-gear lull of August in the office, the whip is being cracked. The best medicine for end-of-summer melancholy is to ring the changes with a new look that breaks us out of the doldrums. The shine of a new pair of boots, the springy plush of a bright new sweater, the swagger of a crisply tailored jacket. All of this is about putting an upbeat spin on the autumnal business of getting stuck into the gruelling next few months.
And in our age of optics, September’s new look matters more than ever. Clothes are the channel on which much of modern life is broadcast. From the politics of the tie (Trump’s long red one versus the no-tie axis that runs from Barack Obama to Sadiq Khan) to the visual semantics of pop (Taylor Swift’s comeback video is punctuated with outfits that are just as deliberately controversial as the lyrics), we are all tuned in to the business of decoding what we wear.
Fashion isn’t just about a look, it’s about a message. Right now, that message is about clothes that are more high-energy, more outward-facing, than last year’s cosy, Netflix-and-chill fashion. In 2016, it was de rigueur to wear a tracksuit on the fashion front row, and pyjamas to a cocktail party. If you want a quick snapshot of the season’s new mood and how it has updated fashion, take a look at the Versace catwalk. All the recognisable hallmarks of Insta-friendly fashion are there, but the aesthetic is more serious-minded than playful, more ambitious than laid back. Gigi Hadid’s abs are on display, but under a cropped double-breasted jacket rather than a sporty bra-top. Kendall Jenner has crazy yellow sunglasses on, but this time with a pencil skirt and a clutch bag.
The new look is not exactly power dressing. Let’s call it empower dressing, instead. Elements of it – berets at Christian Dior, black leather at Calvin Klein, exaggerated shoulders at Balenciaga, bright red absolutely everywhere – signal a mood of direct action that is unusual in women’s fashion. But while power dressing stands for individualistic, single-minded ambition; empower dressing is high-energy without the self-obsession blinkers. At Versace, tailored suits came emblazoned with sisterhood slogans: Unity, Loyalty, Power, Love.
This is not a season of po-faced get-ahead tailoring. Far from it. The most-viewed catwalk show on vogue.com for the season is Gucci. The label’s aesthetic of technicolour, graffiti-scrawled, butterfly-decorated eclecticism is scarcely office appropriate. Prada, once the spiritual home of the A-line knee-length skirt and the useful bag, is all embroidered rainbow-hued knitwear and cheekily fluttering feathers. The latest Chanel tweed suits come accessorised with boots or headbands in escapist, space-age silver. These are not work clothes, but neither are they designed for staying home with a takeaway. Last year’s athleisure fashion borrowed visuals from the yoga studio and the running track – fine jersey, sleek leggings – but 2017 has downed a protein shake and brought a high-intensity attitude to what we wear, instead.
For proof that this is a season of clothes for putting down the remote, getting out of your comfort zone and into the big wide world, consider the transparent raincoat. Both Raf Simons at Calvin Klein and Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu made this a key piece. Consider, also, what has happened to footwear. Those fur-lined loafers, which were essentially unfit for venturing outdoors, have ceded alpha-shoe status to Saint Laurent’s bedazzled silver boots, which are most definitely fashion for going out. Not out to work, but out-out. Trends may well be dead. But every time September rolls around, fashion is alive and kicking, in brand new boots.
Timex Group UK has strengthened its senior management team with the appointment of Duncan Harris as its sales & marketing director.
He will be reporting directly to Gavin Crilly-McKean SVP international. .
Duncan has over 20 years experience within the UK industry. His previous role was as general manager at Bulova UK.
Mr Harris will be responsible for Timex Group UK Sales and Marketing roll out strategies and
customer development as the multi brand portfolio continues to grow across the UK.
Gavin Crilly-McKean said: “I’m extremely pleased to have Duncan join the senior management team.
“He is a widely respected key individual within the UK watch industry and his expertise across strategic planning and brand development are a great fit for the continued growth of our UK operation across Timex, Versus, Versace, Ferragamo and autica brands with our partners.”
Harris added: “Timex Group UK undeniably has made impressive gains in distribution and brand development over recent years and I am truly excited to be leading such a great team and drive growth.”
The online retailer already shifts a lot of clothes. But can its first properly fashion-aware brand, Find, win the approval of style insiders?
What features on your order history at Amazon? Cat food? The final volume of the Neapolitan novels? The Game of Thrones box set? Expect to add trend-led clothes to your basket from today – Find, an own-brand fashion line from the online retailer, has been launched.
This is the latest attempt by the site to dominate fashion the way it does books. Amazon is extremely successful in the business of selling clothes and is likely to become the biggest apparel seller in the US this year. It has a fashion section on the main site, it bought online shoe retailer Zappos in 2010 and own the Shopbop site, but, so far, a foothold in fashion proper has alluded it. Before Find, Amazon’s take on fashion felt too much of a broad church, with products in grids presented the same way that the deals of the day are: useful, but faceless. There’s no mood and no glamour – and fashion demands both of these things.
Find, then, is surprisingly fashionable for a company that, in a Google search, flags up “low prices in electronics, books, sports equipment and more” to tempt you in. Images from the ad campaign show clothes that tick the autumn/winter trend boxes – trench coats, blazers, the slogan tee, the obligatory red dress – but are pitched at a digital native with an eye on her Instagram followers. Prices reflect that. They are a bit cheaper than Topshop, a little more expensive than Boohoo – there are shirts for £30, sock boots for £52, jeans around the £35 mark.
The archly everyday location – a 60s suburban housing estate, complete with a garage door backdrop and zebra crossing – chimes with the mood for the “real” in high fashion. The images owe a lot to the Zurich Locals photography projectproduced by the Vetements brand. But it never gets too arty. Like an advert from Ikea, these images show a cool lifestyle – the Kondo-d kitchen, the shelfie-ready books, the kooky poses – but the products themselves are largely uncomplicated. Not everyone will want a pair of stirruped leggings or hot-pink sock boots. But pretty floral frocks and pinstripe blouses are the stealth pieces that could sell by the bucket-load.
Amazon is taking a risk of sorts with Find. The obvious route to attract the everywoman who shops on Amazon might have been grown-up clothes of the kind found in Marks & Spencer, say, or John Lewis: sensible purchases that form a sort of sartorial add-on item on the main site. Instead, this is closer to River Island or Miss Selfridge and speaks of the influence of a fashion insider team rather than that of an algorithm. But, if a company with European revenues of £19.5bn in 2016 and a teeny tax bill of £15m can’t take a risk chasing the fashion dollar, who can?